Perfect fit for your hand-knitted socks

Of course, there are countless size charts. But for the perfect fit, you should consider three important things:

• the gauge swatch
• the foot measurements
• the foot shape

Very often, finished socks slip, constrict the foot, are too long or too short. This is annoying, but very understandable. Not all feet are the same. Our feet are not only different in length or width, but also narrow and slender or strong with a high instep.

Very often, finished socks slip, constrict the foot, are too long or too short. This is annoying, but very understandable. Not all feet are the same. Our feet are not only different in length or width, but also narrow and slender or strong with a high instep.

Not to mention the length of the toes, and sometimes health problems and foot deformities can also play a role. This makes the perfect fit of our hand-knitted socks even more important.

 

The Gauge Swatch

The classic standard gauge swatch is 10x10cm. For 4-ply yarn, this corresponds to 30 stitches x 42 rows, and for 6-ply yarn, 22 stitches x 30 rows.

However, we don't all knit the same way. Some knit tightly, others very loosely.

Therefore, you should definitely make a gauge swatch. For circular knitted pieces, such as socks, I recommend knitting the gauge swatch in the round as well.

If you knit tightly, like me, you will need more stitches and rows than indicated for 10cm. In that case, you should use a needle size 0.25 - 0.5mm larger.

If you knit loosely, you will need fewer stitches and rows. In that case, you should use a smaller needle size.

I recommend making another gauge swatch with a different needle size until you achieve the correct measurement.

 

Determining the Correct Foot Measurement

Normally, common sock charts refer to shoe size. But we want to do this properly...

It's well known that the best time to buy shoes is in the afternoon or evening, because blood circulation increases during the day, and with it, the volume of our feet. Therefore, you should also take measurements at this time of day.

What you need:

• an A4 sheet of paper
• a pen
• a tape measure
• possibly someone to help you

Foot Length

Place the paper on the floor, with the narrow side against a wall. Stand barefoot firmly on the paper, with your heel also against the wall. Now the second person comes into play... use the pen to mark the longest point (normally this should be the big or second toe) and the point where the middle of your heel touches the wall (this is a bit trickier).
You should do this for both feet.
Sock yarn stretches when worn, so you should subtract about 7-10%.

Foot Width

Stand barefoot with the widest part of your foot's ball on the tape measure and loosely wrap it around.
Do this for both feet as well.

Lower Leg

Loosely wrap the tape measure around your calf in the area of the future cuff.

You can note the values in the data sheet.

 

The Sock Heel

Here, the bone structure determines the shape. The measurement from the heel over the instep and back again corresponds to the foot length for a normal instep. If the value is below this, it is referred to as a low instep; if the value is above, it is a high instep.

The Right Heel

The instep is crucial here for which heel you should choose.

Heels with a heel flap, such as the flap heel or eyelet heel, are very suitable for a wide instep.

For a narrow heel, you should prefer the boomerang or shadow wrap heel. If the heel is rather normal or wide, then opt for an increase heel or eyelet heel.

What to do if the circumference of the leg and foot are different?

You can find the number in the table. If the number of stitches differs, you should adjust it to the correct stitch count before starting the heel.

 

Sock Toe